A Princely and Armorial Armour:
a portrait of
His Royal Highness The Prince Charles,
Prince of Wales, K.G.,

in the manner of Paul van Somer,
c. 1616

 
 

Oil on canvas, a full-length portrait of The Prince Charles, aged about 16, standing on a green velvet carpet with a gold fringe, wearing a Greenwich armour decorated by blueing and with gilded decoration, his left hand on a table covered with a green velvet cloth with gold decoration and fringing, his close helmet on the table and decorated with the ostrich plumes of The Prince of Wales; the right background, as viewed, formed of green velvet hangings fringed with gold, the upper left background, as viewed, painted with the [ incomplete] inscription,

[LE TRE]S HAULT
[TRES E]XCELLENT ET
[TRE]S [IL]LUSTRE PRINCE
CHARLES PRINCE DE
GALLES,

an impression of the badge of The Prince of Wales visible above the inscription. Contained in a modern black wooden frame with a gilded fillet.

Height 85 ¼”, width 50 ¾”.


This magnificent, princely portrait of the young man who was to become King Charles I of England, Scotland, Ireland and France in 1625 shows him as an adolescent, some nine years earlier. It is one of two such portraits known. In both versions the Prince is dressed in a superb, decorated armour from the Royal Workshops at Greenwich and armed with a magnificent swept-hilt rapier, its hilt probably from the workshop of Robert South. Both this portrait and the armour depicted therein are worthy of lengthy investigation.

Prince Charles was born in Dunfermline, Fife, in 1600, three years before his father, King James VI of Scotland, succeeded to the throne of England as King James I, thus uniting the Crowns of the old enemies. While successive kings of England had laid sufficient claim to the throne of France to quarter the Arms of France on their shields of Arms, successive kings of Scotland had courted, and been courted by, French monarchs anxious to have an ally on the northern border of their traditional enemy. The unification of the Crowns of England and Scotland in 1603 brought about two related seismic shifts in northern European politics: the constant wars, border raiding and tension between England and Scotland ceased and so did the need for an alliance between Scotland and France against England. King James VI & I was eager to avoid both the horrors and the costs of war and saw no reason to continue the enmity of his new, united, kingdom - which he christened Great Britain - with France, although he did not go so far as to remove the Arms of France from his heraldry.

Having succeeded a childless queen, Elizabeth I, on the throne of England, James was anxious to establish a dynasty linked to the Royal houses of Europe: such alliances were intended not only to strengthen the status of Britain and its Royal family but also to avoid unnecessary wars. James and his queen, Anne of Denmark, lost their eldest son, Prince Henry - created Prince of Wales at the age of 16 in 1610, to typhoid fever in 1612. Having failed to found a dynasty through Henry, King James changed his plans and tried to find a suitable wife for Henry’s younger brother, Charles.

At the time, negotiations for foreign marriages usually began with an exchange of images between the putative couple: inevitably, such images tended to flatter their sitters. Created Prince of Wales in 1616, and thus demonstrably heir to a kingdom, Prince Charles had great status and this portrait, almost certainly painted soon after his investiture as Prince of Wales, is intended to leave no doubt about that status. It is, literally, spelt out in the universal diplomatic language of old French: Le Très Hault, Très Excellent et Très Illustre Prince Charles, Prince de Galles (The Most High, Most Excellent and Most Illustrious Prince Charles, Prince of Wales). The armour, too, denotes status of a very particular kind since, in its decorative imagery, it demonstrates all the style and titles that Charles could expect to inherit when he became king. While wearing this armour, Charles was wearing the emblems of the three kingdoms to which he was proclaimed heir: the roses symbolise England, the thistles Scotland and the fleurs-de-lys France. Ireland has been omitted from the national floral iconography; it had long been regarded as part of England.

Charles spent the years 1616-1624 scouring Europe in search of a bride. More than one diplomatic portrait would have been necessary as a precursor to the prince’s personal advances and this may explain the recorded existence of two versions of this portrait. The other version of this portrait is in a private noble collection in Scotland and illustrated, in order to illustrate the armour, in AVB Norman’s Arms and Armour (London, 1964, p. 54), in which publication - of forty years ago - the armour was attributed to William Pickering of Greenwich: this is an attribution since superseded by later research.

If it is not a pre-nuptial portrait, the fact that it can be almost certainly dated to 1616 and the investiture of the prince as Prince of Wales may likewise explain the existence of two versions. The “Scottish” version of this portrait has significantly more Caledonian imagery present upon it than does the portrait offered here, the right couter (elbow defence) being prominently decorated with a thistle and another thistle replacing the rose shown beneath the Garter sash on the right of the breastplate in this portrait. The “Scottish” version has descended in the family of Robert Ker, 1st earl of Ancrum, who was not only a groom of the bedchamber to Prince Henry but also a gentleman of the bedchamber to Prince Charles during the prince’s abortive mission to Spain in search of a wife in 1623. That a Scottish courtier-diplomat should have possessed one of the two known versions of what may well be either a pre-nuptial portrait or an investiture portrait must be significant. He may have been charged with its care while Prince Charles was in search of a foreign wife or he may have been charged with the care of copy painted for use in Scotland - and thus noticeably more “Scottish” in its iconography. Thus, if the version in Scotland is either a diplomatic or national example, the example offered here must be either another diplomatic copy or the version painted for use in England.

The artist to whose manner this painting is ascribed, Paul van Somer, has suffered from having too many paintings of the early seventeenth century ascribed to him and so ascription to van Somer is an element of paintings research now treated with some care. However, it is recorded that van Somer was working for the British Royal family from 1616 until his death in London in 1621; it is likewise known that he was employed to paint “State” portraits - the official Royal images that would, once approved, be copied by lesser painters for dissemination, engraving and publication. Van Somer is known to have painted a pair of portraits of the King and Queen in 1618: these are now in the British Royal Collection. Another portrait of the King by van Somer not only hangs at the Palace of Holyroodhouse in Edinburgh - official residence of the British monarch in Scotland - but also clearly incorporates a large number of pieces of an armour similar to that worn by Prince Charles in this portrait.

Two factors are therefore certain. Van Somer was in the employ of the Royal family at the time of Prince Charles’s investiture as Prince of Wales in 1616, the year in which the prince began searching for a wife abroad and would thus begin requiring diplomatic portraits. An armour similar to that depicted in this portrait was in existence when van Somer painted Prince Charles’s father, in the Holyroodhouse portrait, in 1618: most of the elements of this armour, or one very like it, still exist, in the British Royal Collection at Windsor Castle.

The question of the accuracy of armour depicted in portraits is not an easy one to answer; it is one that has been the subject of constant debate, research and publication - the indefinable and inexplicable factors of artistic licence and client requirements being recognised but incapable of accurate analysis. One of the few certainties is that to “see” or “read” paintings too literally is almost always a mistake. More can be said conclusively about the armour depicted in this portrait than can be said, with certainty, about the accuracy of its depiction. The attribution of the armour believed to be depicted here is no longer to the Royal Workshops at Greenwich under the mastership of William Pickering but, rather, to those workshops under the earlier mastership of Jacob Halder. Halder died in 1608 and is known to have supervised the manufacture of an armour for the 12-year old Prince Henry just before his death: this is the armour of which most parts are at Windsor and the armour closest in its decoration to that in our portrait and its “Scottish” version.

While one cannot exclude the possibility that the Prince of Wales is depicted in this portrait, and in its “Scottish” version, in an armour made at Greenwich specifically for him and which no longer exists, or in an imaginary armour based upon that made for his brother in 1608, what seems to be more likely is that he is depicted wearing elements of the armour made for his late brother about eight years before this portrait was painted. In 1608, Prince Henry had been 12 years old and was a well-grown and robust child. In 1616, Prince Charles was 16 years old and of a slight and diminutive build much in need of an artist’s flattery; while the extant armour of his dead brother might have fitted him, both artistic licence and an element of invention would probably have helped improve the portrait.

The knee-length tassets depicted are no longer thought to exist, if - indeed - they ever did: they are certainly not at Windsor. Such tassets had become fashionable by the time that this portrait was executed and so the artist may either have invented them, extrapolating from the remainder of the armour in order to achieve their design, or they may since have been lost - perhaps in the chaos of the British Civil Wars 1642-51. The same armour was used in a posthumous portrait of Henry, Prince of Wales, painted by Sir Anthony Van Dyck for King Charles I in the late 1630s, and now in the British Royal Collection. In this portrait of Prince Henry, the armour more closely resembles that depicted in the “Scottish” version of this portrait. When it was painted the long-dead Prince was depicted in knee-length tassets and high leather boots of the style current in the 1630s.

This portrait poses several imponderable questions. We cannot know what the artist was instructed to depict, or copy, and what allowances he had to make in carrying out his instructions; we cannot be certain that this portrait and its “Scottish” version were painted contemporaneously, although that seems likely; we do know the locations of the surviving elements of the armour that is probably depicted, although we cannot know which elements are missing.

What is certain is that the painting depicts Charles, Prince of Wales, dressed in a magnificent Greenwich armour and equipped with an English sword of the best quality. Probably painted as a diplomatic portrait following his investiture as Prince of Wales in 1616, it depicts the adolescent Prince as the emblem of his father’s kingdom and as one of the most eligible bachelors in Europe.


Image reproduced by courtesy of Peter Finer

 
 

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